10 to 12 years ago, I conceived the idea of making my own foam cutting and wiring CNC machines, after moving to Europe for a few years, and then, in the absence of a career and space, I gave up the idea for the time being but have been buying parts for the machine. A friend was chatting with me about two years ago and he said he had space for us to build it. The requirements of the foam CNC have changed over the years, so the plan has changed, but the CNC router is still a hot topic. Considering that I have an idea of what I want and that there is no plan for the change of the machine is inevitable. The top of the table is 1250mm × 650mm and the estimated cutting area is 950 × 500mm. We started to assemble the machine frame, which was done by gluing the 22mm X 48mm board and screwing it into the 22mm Marine laying base. There are 4 sides here that can close all sides and then have 3 separated nights in the center so I can add a vacuum to the machine at some point. The most important thing is a replaceable 20mm mid-fiber board. The foot/base leg is made of 22mm ocean floor. The local timber merchant cut all the wood into size, so all we have to do is stick everything together. We used the Jowat PU adhesive. Once set up, trim all sides using the flush cut/trim blade on the handheld router. With the table frame, we added the legs to make sure the sides were perfect and the legs were clamped together and then drilled into the press. Mount the table and put it on the base of the gantry. Everything is perfect. At this point, I stuck the frame of the gantry base together, so I decided to pour it over. A 50-year-old Unimat I recovered and progressed slowly. It is clear that the year of the lathe is shown in the picture, because some cuts are not smooth, mainly because the lathe is not hard enough and the motor is not strong enough. I made the nuts myself because it makes more sense to pay $40 for the tap for every $20 and do whatever I want. At some point I got a good quote from my unimat, it\'s done all the accessories and I decided to sell it, buying a beautiful new SEIG C3 is definitely not the decision I regret, making the steering of nuts and anti-bounce nuts very easy. Anti-rebound nuts are made of Delrin or and industrial nylon, they are very effective. But more later. The brass nut is made of brass with a diameter of 30mm and a length of 50mm, but why not? Since I used 12mm TR12 3D Acme/trapezoid lead screws, I imported the tap from Marchant Dice in the UK via eBay and you should also be able to purchase it directly from China, but Kevin has a lot of things for me I recommend his services and products, this is the link, TRM12x3D right hand with tap ladder lead screw I left a small piece of brass so I can tighten it a pair later, I cut this off with the separation tool. I made a fixture that grinds the end of the lead screw to 8mm, which is the meat you left after you removed the thread part of the screw. Both ends are supported by a flange bearing with two flat head screws and then connected to the stepping motor and compensated \"goody\" with a flexible aluminum coupler \". These are long extension nuts or what they are called. At this point, I decided to use the \"supported\" C- The linear bearing below is initially supported only at both ends. The problem with this approach when I initially considered the design of my use of flange bearings is that as X- The shaft runs through the center of the machine and it starts at X-axis. Obviously this will happen more if you use a heavier tool or router. Therefore, the idea is to replace the bearing at the bottom with an open bearing and support the entire length of the bearing rod. This is done by drilling holes in the support bar and making support tracks for the support bar from wood, where I used Epidermix ( Epoxy resin for industrial use Used to glue rails and use 4 screws to make sure the rails never move. Simple solution for current design. In hindsight, this is not the best design, but it works now without a real plan. The rod is now 100% Bolt fixed on the table and supported throughout the process. Super stiff, no horizontal match. Now all the bearings are changed to c- This is a huge change. I cut holes in the gantry base so I can install any backlash nut, which proves to be a good solution and really works. First, I started to build a bearing block for the Y & z axis that carries the bearing. That\'s what I did because it\'s not that complicated and takes up less space, allowing the axis to move more freely. I also decided to make the parts with 12mm plexiglass. I must say Perpex (Plexiglas) This is very good. I had it in my hand and it was really stiff, but what was more surprising than the wood was the pain in my ass. I used the 16mm x 40mm bearing block. Once I drilled all the holes that kept the bearing block, I cut the block to the right size and again on Unimat I had to make two cuts at the bottom of the top, but ti is working. All Cap screws are 4mm stainless steel. The Z- The shaft is again made of 12mm plexiglass and the ends are clamped together and drilled together on a bit close to the same. The stepping motor is again fitted with extension nut and 5mm stainless steel cap screw. The here anti- The backlash nuts are square and made of nylon blocks, in order to eliminate any backlash they a are forced to separate, they are then screwed to the plexiglass. This is the 300 holding torque of the monthly line 23-inch 20 kg stepping motor (kg), these imported Wantai motors. The stepping motor uses the 7 core trailer wiring and I removed a line and the reason I use this line is because it is color coded and easy to get. These are powered through the carrier chain and connected to the motherboard using a 6-pin audio plug-in, ordering a 30v 10 amp power supply for the controller motherboard, the controller board was the HobbyCNC I assembled 14 years ago while living abroad. It works perfectly and proves that when the machine works, you should be able to cut almost any soft material and non- Black metal cooled with a knife head ( By compressed air) Multiple passes When the nylon block is cut, it may melt and block the cutter if it is not cooled at all. At the end of the day, the harder the machine is, the harder the material you should be able to cut. Even with this, I will stop to see the aluminum. I have figured out how to cut at 400mm per minute and am very happy about that. In this building, it is a bit misleading in terms of price, as I have purchased many parts for several years, but I have compiled a list of items. Many of them are imported and some are bought locally, so the price does not include freight charges. Fiber board, flange linear bearing X 4 110 linear motion bearing X 8 3020mm metal pillow block bearing with flange X 3 12mm bearing CNC aluminum guide linear motion shaft bracket $8mm Miscellaneous screws and adhesives $25mm x 220mm series slide linear guide shaft bracket SHF series X 4 stepping motor flexible coupler X 3 12mm TR12 available locally via 3D ladder lead screw Acme 1250mm, 665mm, 350mm, but only 1000mm, so I imported one. 12mm nylon nut and 12mm flange brass nut X 3 ( 12x3 ladder I have a faucet so I do it myself) 270 oz-two-axis stepping motor that meets film standards \"With Mach3 and lazycam generation gcode of 300 ozhobbycnc step drive plate and power 2500mm linear bearing Rod 12mm 665mm linear bearing Rod local source di am. The key to speed is also to make sure all your Rapids are correct and there is a cut for each action. It\'s not always that easy to do, but it works through practice. I should start learning a new CAM program, but I don\'t know which one to try next.
