extrusion 3d printer with 300mmx300mm heat bed with pre-configured marlin and controlled via wifi

I have a Reprap printer with a standard 8 inch bed, but as many projects get bigger and bigger it gets smaller and smaller I need something bigger but won\'t pay the expensive price, so I decided to build something myself that wasn\'t cheap but still better than paying in full, I used most of my Reprap parts in the upgrade, first I needed a new frame and decided 1.
5 inch aluminum extrusion brings 3x8 feet length from Amazon, 2 will be fine, but there will be 3 if something goes wrong.
We tried 360 w, the most powerful we found on Amazon, but the main capacitor exploded, so we plugged it into the ups and found that the hot bed alone was drawing 420 w, so we searched Ebay and found a 600 W 12v power supply on Ebay that shipped from Hong Kong via air mail even though pc psu will complete the compact device we want
Don\'t get Rambo v1.
We found that 2 boards without a USB static protector-(ESD). (
Blow the communication mouth)
Google is full of information about this.
Also, you definitely need a relay when the Motherboard has a maximum output of 15 amps, and the power consumption of the bed is 30 amps.
We found the beds and trunks for the same supplier on Ebay.
The aluminum is from ebay with a length of 3 x 8ft and only 2 is needed, but we ended up getting 3 to allow for errors.
The bolts used are mainly 3mm for fixing the compact 17 stepping motor, although many printers are assembled together using standard bolts and hex bolts.
6x8mm slide bar with Z axis length of 350mm 2, x 2 and Y 2x400mm.
2x8mm drive lever (350mm length)
And 400mm
The wire rod and brass nut, 4 starts at a distance of 2mm, so a linear motion of 8mm per rotation.
Of course, more than 400mm printers can be used for higher printers.
Although 2 coupler can be used, we used 2x5mm to 8mm to connect the motor shaft of 5mm to the light slide rod of 8mm, therefore, the 8mm coupler of the main z-axis drive rod is not caused by extrusion and 2x 8mm friction.
We tried it 2 times in the first place, which caused a huge sliding problem, we ended up drilling holes on the coupler and Rod and using split pins, as shown in the figure.
The motor drive gear used by this printer is 20 teeth instead of 16, 2 teeth.
1 on the y axis, 1 on the x axis.
The drive belt is 6mm standard Reprap belt, we used 3x2 m belt for safety, but 2x1 belt for 5 m would be good.
The display is a Geeetech 12864 LCD display with an SD card reader controller with an adapter 3D printer for less than $20, but you will need to switch to Repetier 0.
92, not 91, because it is not listed unless Marin is used. The limit (micro)switches.
5, x min, x max, z min, y min and y max were used, because the Rambo board can accept up to 6 switches, we used this to increase the bed leveling
We do have problems when we start the printer, the switch is the reason the motor is not moving, so if you do not have a moving motor in one direction, then check your switch, is a simple solution.
Angle brackets, the large brackets that look very strong in the photo become weak and easy to break, search for other brackets shown in the photo, those with a solid side.
The board under the hot bed is 2mm 12. 3 by 12.
3 inch steal the board, but because it is not thick enough, it must be replaced, and when the bed is school on time, it will bend the corner, so remember this when choosing the metal plate.
The bearings come from E bay.
4x4 PCS LM8UU 8mm moving linear ball bushing ball bearings for extruder housing and 8x SC8UU scs8 uu 8mm linear moving ball bearings 4 of which are placed under the hot bed base, 2 placed on each side of the frame on the z axis.
When building the frame, before connecting the column, be sure to check that the top of the frame is horizontal, or that they will not be straight when connecting the y axis Rod, when you calibrate the bed, you will find that you can\'t because a corner is always off and when we make this mistake we add a proximity sensor to overcome the problem.
We found that the z-axis is not enough voltage for both motors, which resulted in a motor stuttering and we solved this problem on Repetier firmware version 0.
We could mirror the Z motor to another port, so we used the second extruder port and then everything worked fine.
If you are going to use two motors plus a second extruder, then maybe you can get two csm motors with a lower voltage so they can be used on the Z axis on the board, I don\'t know what voltage to get for this.
We tried several types of springs, but most of them are weak and a lot of vibration causes the printing to not be very good, so please make sure you have a solid spring with a length of about 20mm and a maximum of 5 to 6 turns
Firmware, they say Marin is the best, but we found that Repetier is simpler to use and can import profiles from other printers as I did from Prusa i3 to a larger version of my update.
All plastic parts are available in Thingiverse.
ComRepetier firmware